Autumn/Winter brown lined qipao

atelier leilei
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This time, for myself, I made a lined qipao with brown checkered sleeves for fall and winter.

Autumn/Winter brown lined qipao

Lining hem circumference

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

I’m going to put lace around the hem of the lining of the robe.

This is a lot of work😅💦.

embroidery

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

Start sewing😊🌸

fukienori

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

I actually use fukienori as a heirloom for making qipao 😊🌸.

Slit completed

 

Slit completed♪

This time it’s a lined qipao for fall/winter.

I love the lace on the hem glimpse💗🌸

receptacle (ling tuo / 領托)

There is a thin loop at the neckline, which is called a “ling tuo” (領托), the base of the standing mandarin collar.

Collar of antique qipao is attached separately, so the collar is made and sewn onto the saucer.

You can make several collars of different heights for a more three-dimensional effect.

In the summer, the collar can be removed for a cooler look.

Final stage buttoning

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

Finally, the final step is to attach the buttons.

Attaching the single letter buttons is particularly difficult, but there is a trick to it.

First, you have to make sure the loops are even in width, not twisted!

Then you have to mark the clothes and the loop correctly.

Then secure the head with a piece of discipline thread and sew it in place while shaping it with tweezers.

If you’re not familiar with this process, it takes 30 minutes for just one side, about an hour for a pair of buttons.

Completed lined qipao for fall and winter

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

秋冬ブラウンチェックの連袖旗袍。atelier leilei提供。

Finished my lined qipao for fall and winter

My husband named it “Autumn/Winter Brown Checkered qipao”.

It was made using the traditional Chinese “hira-sei” method.

I used the “归拔” technique to make the bust fuller and the waist concave, without bust darts or waist darts.

As you can see in the third picture, there are no darts in the bust and waist, and the pattern of the fabric is not destroyed.

Also, since the “hira-tsuki” is made from a single piece of cloth, there are no sleeving lines or shoulder alignment lines, making it easy to move and very comfortable to wear.

  • Outer fabric: Wool linen mix (Made in Italy)
  • Lining: Cotton (Made in Japan)
  • Piping: T/C Broadcloth (Made in Japan)
  • Lace: Cotton (Made in Japan)
  • Button: Made in Germany

Click here to see the photo session.

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